• 국문 : 문화실천으로의 음식 및 음식소비 연구 ㅡ 현대 한국인의 생활양식변화와 관련하여
• 영문 : Food and Food Consumption as Cultural Practices ㅡ Lifestyle Changes in Contemporary Korea

• 김광억 / 서울대학교 / 교수
• 한경구 / 서울대학교 / 교수
• 양영균 / 한국학중앙연구원 / 부교수
• 박상미 / 외국어대학교 / 교수

Food and Food Consumption as Cultural Practices ㅡLifestyle Changes in Contemporary Koreaㅡ
Rice Cuisine and Cultural Practice in Contemporary Korean Dietary Life

Kwang Ok Kim (Professor of anthropology, Seoul National University)

   Recent wave of renaissance of culinary culture of Korea reveals many interesting cases for anthropological interpretation. Along with growing multi-nationalization of dietary life, people invent new items of rice cuisine and (re)produce new perspectives on the positive quality of national food. One may argue this as an expression of cultural nationalism. Through a careful examination of rice cuisine in Korea and its comparison with other Asian countries, however, this paper interprets the phenomena as a cultural practice of philosophy of sintobuli(body and earth is one) and well-being to fit in the post-modern life world.

# Keywords:
sintobuli, well-being, bab, globalization, localization, multi-nationalization, dietary structure, culinary system, aesthetics, personal creation of taste, renaissance of national food

Dining Elegance and Authenticity: Archaeology of Royal Court Cuisine in Korea

Okpyo Moon (Professor of Anthropology at the Academy of Korean Studies)

   The age-old tradition of the Korean royal court culture was doomed to be lost with the ultimate fall of the Choson dynasty by the Japanese imperial power at the beginning of the 20th century. Much of the court life tradition faded away and disappeared with the aging and economic hardship subsequently suffered by the displaced royal family members and their former attendants after the establishment of Japanese colonial administration in 1910. It was only in the 1970s that the tradition of royal court cuisine began to receive official attention as part of the efforts to reconstruct and preserve the lost and disappearing national cultural heritage. In 1970, a former court lady named Han was designated by the state as the 38th Important Intangible Cultural Heritage as a specialist in the Royal Court Cuisine of the Choson Dynasty (Choson wanjo kungjung umsik, 朝鮮王朝宮中飮食). Through a detailed case study of Hwang Hye-song(1920~2006), the successor of Han as the second state-designated skill holder, this paper examines the process by which 'royal court cuisine' was identified and re-defined within the framework of Intangible Cultural Heritage System in Korea, and analyses how the royal cuisine thus reconstructed has come to be established, recognized and successfully commoditized as a specific brand of haute cuisine in the dietary culture of the late 20th and the early 21st century Korea.

# Keywords:
royal court cuisine, Intangible Cultural Heritage System, politics of authenticity, branding, commodification of tradition, national identity

Noodle Odyssey: East Asia and Beyond

Kyung-gu, Han (Professor, Seoul National University)

   This paper is an attempt to use Korean ramyeon to examine some of the major issues in the study of food and culture. In Japan as in Korea ramen and ramyeon not only came to find loyal consumers and addicts and occupy significant places in the food cultures of both countries, but also began to cross national boundaries to find fans and markets in China and other countries. Chinese noodle has come home, after a hundred year long voyage to and from Japan via Korea. Three points will be made.
   Firstly, Korean ramyeon has become another kind of global food quite different from Japanese ramen. Ramyeon in Korea means instant noodle, while ramen in Japan generally means noodles sold in ramen restaurants.
   Second, Korean ramyeon is a class confuser. Instead of marking and reinforcing class "distinctions", ramyeon seems to play the role of confusing and modifying them.
   Third, I propose to introduce the concept of "ramyeonization". This process is found in the increase of new forms of instant food sold in plastic packages. It also involves the dominance of hot and spicy taste in Korean cuisine. Further, ramyeonization involves individualization and fragmentation of meals and the resultant impact on family and society at large.

# Keywords:
ramyeon, ramen, Chinese noodle, food, ramyeonization

Well-being Discourse and Chinese Food in Korean Society

Young-Kyun Yang (The Academy of Korean Studies)

   In the 2000s well-being has become one of the main topics in popular discourse in Korean society. Even though well-being is a comprehensive concept that includes one's physical, mental, and financial states, in popular discourse food gets most attention. In such circumstances, the pattern of food consumption began to change. Chinese food which has long been a very popular food in Korea is also experiencing various changes. This paper intends to analyze people's perception and practices of well-being as well as to explore the image and consumption pattern of Chinese food in connection with well-being discourse. Chinese food tends to be regarded as ' unhealthy' and Chinese restaurants have a bad reputation for its 'uncleanness'. Thus those consider well-being first rarely eat Chinese food. However, people eat Chinese food for various reasons. If some consider well-being after they decide to eat Chinese food, they would choose restaurants which make various efforts to follow well-being trend. Some think that eating Chinese food if it is unhealthy is better than getting stressed by not eating it in terms of true well-being concept.

# Keywords:
Chinese food, Chinese restaurants, well-being discourse, practices of well-being, food consumption pattern

Exoticizing the Familiar, Domesticating the Foreign: Ethnic Food Restaurants in Korea

Sangmee Bak (Hankuk University of Foreign Studies)

   This paper based on an anthropological fieldwork on ehnic food restaurants in Korea: restaurants that provide international cuisine except for Chinese, Japanese, and the mainstream Western cuisine. In particular, the research focused on Indian restaurants, noticing the rapid increase of such restaurants in today's Korea. Through interviews and observations, the research explored how a foreign cuisine is perceived and accepted by the local customers, and how the restauranteurs as entrepreneurs strategize their business to suit the Korean cultural environment.
   Koreans construct and express their global identities through consuming these ethnic cuisines. In the process of these cuisines' adaptation in Korea, cultural processes of standardization, localization, and hybridization are observed. Simultaneously, each ethnic cuisine acquires its own global identity in this process.

# Keywords:
ethnic food, ethnic restaurants, identity, globalization, culture of consumption